what is the deal with this high-=pressure hose?

I notice at wreckers, EFs hose has an adaptor, ELs lack this adaptor, but eitgher way, ever car i tried,like mine, hose still seems able to move fairly freely when tube nut is dont up, surely nut should lock the hose end agasinst its seat, stopping leaking?

Im not sure how the whole thing principal is, as the seat for the olive-shaped end of pipe looks too far down to seat on all of them.

what i have heard, is that its a major issue one of the most common problems EF and EL leaking power steering connection hose to pump.
Is it meant to still have movement when done up, but still seal even with the movement? The obvious threat is just fluid to run past olive, along pipe, under tube nut, and out, unless that olive is firmly seated and sealing..

How could Ford bungle such a simple fundamental piece of enginnering as a pipe hose seat connection?

Mine can move too. It's been like it since I bought the car.

It was only a year old when I bought it and has never leaked.

Yes, youre right, they all move, this is waht i found out:

the leaking I knew was running along under the tube-nut between the tube and its nut, at the pump end.

You can buy a replacement nut RRP about $13, which amazingly to me, has an o-ring and a miniature internal circlip inside it.
Nut can only be bought genuine part, as power-steering repairer who told me of the whole thing admitted.

You have to cut the old one off,it cant be pulled off, with absolute care, not to even scratch the tube underneath, I put it in a vice and used a 4in angle-grinder, making several deep cuts close to but all the way through to, the underlying tube.
If you scratch or damage the part of the tube the o-ring rides on, it will not seal, you'll still have a leaker, and will be up for new PS presure hose complete, which are $150+ even non-genuine. Maybe EnZEd hose doctors can make an appropriate hose, for less, not sure.

with several deep cuts it was so deep could disintergrate it off with a whack..
sure enough, the little o-ring inside was hard.

if you could get the nuts off without destroying them, any suitable size and material rubber o-ring would solve problem, but seems to be no way to get them off, the circlip locks them on, the end of the tube would probably snap before you got it to slip off.

new nut assy pushes on with relative ease.
no signs recurrence leak.

I dont 'rattle around in an 83 Lazer, either, where the hell did that come from???

never owned a Lazer..

main car is a 93 Hilux with aluminium tray ,
which is without doubt best made vehicle of any make Ive ever owned, underpowered, uncomfortable, but you never repair it..on LPG costs me nix for basic transport at least..

Have heard the same thing about the hoses. *nods* I got told it was to stop non-genuine small spare parts flooding the market. Not sure if I agree, guess I don't know enough about economics!

Your '83 Ford Laser comment is about the post count. As your post count gets higher, you get better and better cars.

HiLux's are tough. That's why they're so popular amongst tradies and the like, who couldn't care less about comfort or performance, just about toughness and durability. Have heard the body rusts pretty easy, though? Has yours had that problem? Something about using thin sheet metal.

It gets a strange surface spot stain-rust sort of thing on roof, other than that, no, has never shown any signs of rust. Guards, doors etc, are all like new, which its only a cab-chassis thing, no rear bodywork, just has the aluminium box.
Which i do make sure leaves mud etc is nevr allowed to gather under guards corners etc.

remarks apply to interior, as well, everything is so tight, nothing ever cracks or breaks dash or doortrims floor-mat etc.
Wish to Christ Falcon was made to this similiar standard....

Mate, you are not alone in wishing that! If only...

Power steering pumps are the same in each model? my mate has an EA and his pump looks almost indentical to the one in my AU. As for the hose, I had to replace the whole dam line cos the O ring in the nut shat itself!!!

I'd be thinking first up would be the pulley - and I'm not sure if they can be swapped. Other than that, not sure...

Guys you can replace the o'ring in the power steer pump - there is actualy two one inside the fitting and the other inside the lock nut - nine times out of ten they just go hard and brittle...!!!

This a common problem especialy when this problem is the majority of the reasons why we have alternator problems, because the p/s fluid leaks out of the fitting and straight onto or into the alternator.

The movement in the fitting is built in to compensate for the engine movement when reving.

I know the O ring can be replaced on the pump, but there is one inside the connection assembly of the high pressure hose line that cannot be replaced

Both the inner and outer o'rings on the swivel fitting connection at the P/S pump can be replaced - most people only do the outer o'ring because they believe that it is the only one there but the inner one is the one that is more suseptible to heat. and is simple to replace......!

They just go brittle..........!!!!!!

I don't think we're on the same level here PB

OMG ihad so much troble with my lines (well on my ef)! they keeped on leakin after a o-ring change, got on my nerves so i just wraped a fare amount of plummers tape on it and did it back up.

it's the only real problem i have ever had apart from the god damn heat!

Believe it or not evil I'd be more worried about your alternator than anything else the power steer pump leaking out of the swivel fitting is the main reason for most alternator failures - Not a great place for a leaky hose fitting hey...!!