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Tech : A Guide to To ask questions relating to this document, CLICK HERE. A special thanks to Shane Arnold of TRUEBLUEFORD & Joe from Crescent Motors for his assistance in producing this article.
(NAVIGATION: Page 5, Page 4, Page 3, Page 2, Page 1, back to TBF Tech) PART 2: START Okay, this is where we get into it. Below is a pic of the Falc's dirty underside - with Shane starting to undo the screws. As you can see, he has already undone a few of them and the oil is starting to leak out from the side of the pan. The oil leak you can see near the tail shaft is due to a crook output housing seal & support bearing (evident by the movement in the tail shaft yoke in the gearbox) - something we'll deal with at another time... Oil leaks like this should be kept in control, as they can result not only in an unsightly driveway, but also in your gearbox running out of oil leaving you stranded sitting on the side of the road, even doing damage to your gearbox.
GETTING THE OLD OIL OUT: What you don't see in the image above is the oil tray set below to catch the oil as it escapes...Ford in it's infinite wisdom didn't see the need to include a drain plug, so this is how you must do it. Messy hey? To achieve this effect, loosen the screws off at one end first, working to the other...and watch out! Shane on the left, Joe's hand on the right...
Whilst we chose to do this particular service on a four-post hoist (many thanks to Joe of Crescent Motorsport) it is possible to do whilst the car is on the ground with the front in the air on a set of ramps. Obviously, make sure you have a big enough tray to catch a large amount of oil - and a swear jar handy (you will need it) with plenty of coin to go in it! This is definitely one of those jobs which is MUCH much much easier on the hoist if you can get one! ( To ask questions relating to this document, CLICK HERE. ) In any other gearbox, oil this colour would be saying 'danger, Will Robinson'. But in Ford's crap-o-matic, it's all part of standard fare...with most boxes ending up like this after a decent run.
Once off & sufficiently drained (leave the dregs in there, you'll soon see why), it is important to inspect the pan for any signs of wear particles that shouldn't be there - things such as pieces of metal which will show up like grit in the oil. Anything like this is a sure sign of trouble ahead - time to start saving for a reco box! Fortunately in my case, whilst the oil was definitely a unhealthy colour, that was all that we found in the pan. SAFETY TIPS: If choosing to accomplish this whilst your car is on ramps, MAKE SURE you securely chock the back wheels BEFORE you attempt to move under the vehicle. This is essential as hand brakes have been known to fail before, and you should value your family more than that (I know they will value you!) Avoid performing this task on the road, as not only is it illegal but is also dangerous due to the risk of a vehicle running into you while you are working on the car (amazing what people will do when distracted) or climbing out from underneath straight into the path of a passing car...you've been warned! REMOVING THE OLD FILTER:
With the pan removed, here Shane is removing the old, dirty oil filter from it's place. The wire clip you can see running diagonally across the filter itself is the clip that holds it in place - you'll need to carefully prise each end clear, and beware that this may also release another flow of the black stuff... Here Shane is using a set of pliers to remove the clip, stopping it from heading rapidly over the other side of the workshop into some deep, dark corner where it is impossible to find... ( To ask questions relating to this document, CLICK HERE. )
Above: Although taken later on once the new filter has been installed, this shot shows clearly how the clip is attached on one side...
Related Pages on www.trueblueford.com : TBF
tech, Drive
Train Forum Discussion. And with that you're just about ready to go onto PART 3... (NAVIGATION: Page 5, Page 4, Page 3, Page 2, Page 1, back to TBF Tech)
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